Sunday 25 February 2018

Change of plan & more ghost towns

Our plan had been to head to Caliente but we decided to return via Tonopah and Bishop.   Ely to Tonopah is a lovely drive but has to be one of the loneliest roads we’ve ever driven, it’s not far shy of 200 miles and once you leave Ely there is absolutely nothing.   We saw one gas pump that obviously belonged to a ranch, several ‘hamlet’ type places, a couple of abandoned towns, dirt roads heading in all directions off into the desert and that’s about it.

When we looked at the map we realized that for part of the way we were skirting the huge ‘secret’ military base called ‘Area 51’.   It was a good job it wasn’t night time as otherwise who knows what we might've seen!

On our return to Tonopah we stayed at the same RV Park and once more went ghost town hunting.

The semi-ghost town of Belmont was our first stop.   It’s quite a drive from Tonopah, or at least it seemed like it, we first took Highway 6 back towards Ely, branching off along highway 372 and then branching off along highway 82.   Lots of wide open spaces and very little else, in fact I don’t think we saw another vehicle all the way there.

Belmont was established in 1865 when Shoshone Indians first brought prospectors to the area, the name is from the French Beaumont meaning ‘beautiful mountain’ probably because of the view of Mount Jefferson from the town.

Quite a few people live in the town and, as almost always seems to happen we saw a UPS, truck they seem to turn up in the most unlikely places.   Silver, copper, iron, antimony and sulphur were all mined in Belmont and from 1865 to 1885 it’s estimated that ore to the value of about $15,000,000 was produced.    Imagine how much that would be today.

At one time Belmont was the county seat for Nye County and the town built a beautiful Italianate Courthouse.    Belmont was also the home of Tom Logan, the Sherriff who had an office in the courthouse and who died in mysterious circumstances outside a brothel in the nearby town of Manhattan.   We bought a very interesting book about him from Tonopah Mining Museum.

As the town fell into disrepair so did the courthouse and one of the stories we heard was that the drug addict and serial killer Charles Manson and his drug addicted followers squatted in the courthouse for a while and, supposedly, Charles Manson wrote his name on one of the courthouse door frames.   There are two different stories relating to their time in Belmont.

One is that at that time the only occupant of Belmont was an old lady who ignored them and they ignored her.

The other, my favourite, is that the old lady had a shotgun and ran them out of town.   I like to think of an old lady with a shotgun seeing off that murderous lot.

The courthouse has been partially restored and opens on selected weekends, needless to say we were there on a weekday.    

This building was once the office of the Belmont Courier newspaper.

What’s left of the Belmont bank.

The remains of the Combination Stamp Mill, there are lots of loose bricks at the top of the chimney; you really wouldn’t want to stand nearby in high winds!

As we left Belmont we stopped at the cemetery, for once we didn’t find the graves of any English miners.

Our next stop was Manhattan, another ghost town.   There is a shortcut across the mountains and the dirt road looked good, but as we kept running into snow this trip we took the long way round on the paved roads.   Most of Manhattan appears to be operational and it’s almost all marked private, so we just drove through, turned around and came back.   

Have fun, we are!

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